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  Whether you are adopting an adult dog or a puppy, all will still require some training
to become the pet you desire. Keeping up with training will make you and your pet much happier.
Tips on housebreaking:
Basic rule of thumb for being able to "hold" is for every month (this is for puppies/young
dogs) in age, add "1" and that is the maximum number of hours your pet can hold. We have found through our experience
it is much closer to the age in months without adding "1." That means an 8 week old puppy can only hold about 1-2
hours maximum before needing to eliminate. As they mature in age, so will their bladder and bowel muscles and they will be
able to control their urges better. If a young puppy is made to "hold" for extended periods of time, they will have
more of a tendency to develop anxiety issues as well as the possibility of bladder or urinary tract infections. Having specific
meal times and keeping on a consistent schedule is also key. Most puppies will feel the need to potty right after waking,
right after playing, right after eating, right after drinking; getting excited...you get the idea.....eventually you will
have it down to 3-4 times daily, but it will take a few months to get to that point. You will need to have patience and understand
your puppy's requirements and the rest will follow naturally.
We are firm believers in crate-training. This
involves the use of a crate/kennel (either the open wire style or the enclosed plastic versions) as a key component. Dogs
prefer something that is THEIRS' and the use of a crate helps to foster independence as well as becoming a "safe"
haven. The idea is to use it as a form of training, but not as punishment. If done correctly, your dog will love their crate.
We start with puppies as soon as they are weaned, typically at 6-7 weeks of age. If we have more than one at a time,
they are introduced to a crate together, with usually two or three in a crate, and only for a couple hours at first, just
to check things out and get used to the idea and that it feels comforting and welcoming. They are then let out to potty, play,
and then a short naptime back in the crate. This is repeated several times throughout a given day and the idea is to be able
to work up to being able to sleep in the crate at bedtime. After about a week of being together, we then slowly reduce the
number of pups per crate and continue in the same manner. After a couple weeks, we then have worked up to crating individually
and by then, it only takes a day or two and all are very used to the idea and very little crying or whining or accidents.
They usually go right to sleep and are out for the night. If they cry during the night, we get up to check and if anyone has
to potty, they are taken out to do their business and then back in the crate to sleep.
If we are training adults,
it is done in pretty much the same manner, only the training is usually quicker and easier with an adult dog. Most of the
dogs we take in are adults and came straight from a kennel, so they were already used to being confined. However, when here,
they are only in the crates for training for short periods and for sleeping at night. The rest of the time they are free to
come and go as they please. We almost have to do a reversal so they get used to being OUT of a crate versus getting used to
being IN one.
We found that with both puppies and adults, if you put a small blanket, towel, or cover
over the front part of the crate, that they settle down quicker and relax easier as it makes it more denlike and dark and
quiet, which encourages calmness. We have never NOT been able to crate-train a dog, no matter the age. It fosters security
and independence and it is THEIR safe place.
Crating is also useful if your dog ever has to go to the vet's
or a groomer's and has to stay for awhile....they will be confined while there and if they're already used to that,
it won't be nearly as traumatic for them. They already know it is not punishment. The same idea goes for any that would
need to be shipped or fly, or have to be confined due to illness or injury. These are all thoughts to consider.
We
use newspapers as bedding for those just starting training. We eventually can work up to a blanket or pet bed as they are
able to "hold" longer and be clean. It is okay to put a small bed or blanket in the back of the crate with
papers underneath. The size of the crate is key too. The idea is that you want something just big enough for them, but not
so large that they feel they can sleep in one end and eliminate in the other. If necessary, use a divider until the dog has
matured enough to hold longer. As a general rule, dogs will not mess where they sleep, which is the main thought behind crate
training. We do not put food or water in the crate. They can eat and drink separately. The crate is for sleeping only. Some
schools of thought suggest putting food and water in the crate at first, but we feel that can only confuse them further. Of
course especially with a young puppy, a small toy or a treat is acceptable.
Housebreaking Do's and Don'ts
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| Be realistic with your puppies training, this is a process that
takes time. | | Don't think if all is done right your pup will be 100% trained in 3 weeks. | | Expect accidents. Clean them up and carry on. If you catch the
pup going, lift him up and bring him to his elimination area. | | Don't ever hit, yell
at, or run your pup's nose in it. This will lead to a fearful and untrusting pet. | | Praise calmly for going outside. | | Do
not talk much or distract pup so as he forgets what he is supposed to do. | | Feed on schedule - limit water. | | Do not
feed pup on demand or give water after 7pm. | | Take
pup to same areas they have gone outside. | | Don't allow free play until you see him relieve himself. | | Do escort your pup outside. | | Don't
assume they're doing their business alone. | | Do
say word or phrase to associate with going. | | Don't talk or distract them from doing what they are there
for. | | Allow earned free time
in your home after going outside. Start with kitchen. | | Don't bring pup into your living room for the first time at
6 months of age; 5-10 minutes in your living space after he has been out is great. | | Use a treat to lure pup into his crate. | | Never
punish or yell at your puppy while he is in his crate. Don't let him out if he has just been put in and is barking and
fussing. | | Love your puppy,
he is just learning. | | Don't give up, don't get mad, and don't take it personally. |
Chewing:
Puppies teeth just like children do. They are curious and will want to explore and a young puppy
knows no difference between a regular dog toy and your shoes. You have to "puppy proof" your home much as you would
for a baby or toddler to "baby proof." Anything that is attainable at their level is fair game, so shoes, important
papers, knick knacks, anything that is within easy reach is best put up out of the way until your baby outgrows this phase
and you can teach him/her what is okay to play with and what is not. This also includes any electrical cords, mini blind cords,
phones, remote controls, pillows, plants, etc.
Some dogs are more "oral" than others, so do your research
regarding your particular breed you are adopting to be sure what to fully expect. A Labrador Retriever or Golden will put
everything in their mouths whereas a little Chihuahua may not. Each breed has specific characteristics which will play an
important role in how easy or how difficult to train they going to be.
Make sure you have plenty of chew toys and
things for your puppy to play with to keep them interested and occupied. There are also some specific toys that are quite
useful for puppies and young dogs. "Kong" type of toys, those that you can put treats or food inside, are definitely
useful, as well as balls, harder toys that are tougher and can keep up with those sharp needle teeth. Most toys with stuffing
and squeakers are okay with a young puppy, but keep in mind as they mature and get older that they will have a fascination
with chewing the stuffing out and most dogs eventually love to remove the squeakers. We have found that by purchasing one
or two really "nice" toys (they can be expensive), we can buy our other dog toys at any local dollar store. Anything
that is okay for children is typically suitable for puppies and a WHOLE lot cheaper...we will buy 10-12 toys, give them 2
or 3, and then rotate them as needed if any need washing or get destroyed.
If you keep a consistent routine schedule
and do the SAME thing at the SAME time every day, you will be rewarded with a pet that learns quickly. Dogs are very much creatures of routine and they only have YOU to depend on.
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